J'Adore New York Tartinery
Some may argue no two cities are alike. And although this is true, there are also some cities that cast a spell on you over and over again. For me, Paris and New York do just this. Yet for two cities that never seem to sleep, they sure fulfill a lot of dreams— and one dream in particular was my love for food. For many, New York, means pretzels and hot dogs. For others, Paris draws to mind baguettes, croquettes, and croissants. But for me, New York and Paris will always share one thing that remains close to my heart: tartines.
The chic Parisian area of Saint-Germain-des-Prés may be known for its ritzy, elegant apartment buildings and cafés, but it is also known as home to the renowned Poilâne Bakery, creator of the infamous crusty loaves of sourdough bread that comprise the foundation of any great tartine. And it didn't take long for the Restaurateurs behind Tartinery to pick up on the idea of using the best of the best to create their signature tartines.
Tartinery is located in the chic New York neighborhood of Nolita, and is perhaps one of the only establishments in New York where you can eat Poilâne bread. With a modern atmosphere, surrounded by brick walls and a tree growing in the midst of a round table, I soon realized it may be hard to pretend I was in Paris for the evening dine. Yet the whiffs of fresh bread, chocolate fondants, and cozy fireside tables soon changed my mind.
We were presented with enough tartines that could feed the city of Paris alone. Poilâne bread imported from Paris was flawlessly baked and waiting to be topped with decadent French cheeses, hams, crab, goat cheese, fromage blanc, or even sea salt caramel with grated dark chocolate (dessert is more of an expectation than an option in my book).
My favorite was by far the Croque Madame. A French take on an American breakfast sandwich, this was topped with sweet ham, Gruyère cheese, Béchamel sauce and a fried egg. The texture of the yolk mixed with the ham and was pure heaven.
Yet what was most impressive was the Jambon Purée tartine, topped with ham chiffonade, homemade mashed potatoes and chives. I think my oil obsession for bread dipping has been replaced by mashed potatoes. Co-owner Stephan Jauslin explains this was what French children like himself would eat for lunch as youngsters. Aside from the fact that I was at first enraged with jealousy that all my life I got excited for Kraft Macaroni and tater tots while these French toddlers filled their golden lunchboxes with "Jambon Puree," it was still a dish to remember, and one Stephan and his coworkers can now never forget.
I left Tartinery full and satisfied, and in more ways than one. Still thinking about the delicious selection of savory and sweet tartines I had tasted, I was also full of new knowledge for such admirable French cuisine. Author and artist Thomas Golden Appleton once said, "Good Americans, when they die, go to Paris." Lucky for me, Tartinery happens to be my French heaven on earth.
— Written by Joanna Weinstein
Photo credit: Benvenuti Pr
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