A New Sex for the Sommelier

It's happened in the financial, medical, and academic fields, and now it's happening in the wine world: women are stepping up and creating a new breed of sommelier with a feminine touch. The title of sommelier is not longer being coveted by older and stereotypically arrogant white males. Women are now becoming certified as master sommeliers, seeking jobs in some of the most prominent restaurants. Not only are these new female sommeliers just as qualified and knowledgeable as their male counterparts, but they are bringing something new and much appreciated to many five star tables.

The French title of sommelier was originally an elitist position reserved for and hoarded by males. Wine expertise and chauvinism ruled the domain of all high end dining. It has only been in recent years that women are finally being accepted professionally in large numbers. Many women feel that they have taken the traditional, stuffy position of sommelier, and have made it more accessible and client friendly, adding New World vintages and more variety to their wine lists. Of course, there are still some people who are reluctant to accept the advice of a female sommelier, but others find a female presence refreshing, less forceful, and more accommodating.

Besides being the resident expert on wine and creating an appetizing and thoughtful wine list, the job of a good sommelier also includes making your clients feel comfortable and aiding them in choosing the proper wine that will not only please their palate, but will also compliment their choice of appetizer, entrees, or dessert. Belinda Chang, expert sommelier and wine director at The Modern in New York's Museum of Modern Art feels that as a woman she is able to choose the perfect wine for her diners without having to aggressively prove that she is the ultimate source of knowledge. Belinda feels that "women are less competitive at the tables...male sommeliers can be in it to one up, out do, and/or school their staff, their guests, and each other, while women truly want to delight their guests." In the past, male sommeliers have had the tendency of intimidating guests, especially other males who do not want to seem like a fool when choosing their wine for the night.

Another change brought upon by the female sommelier is the wine list. Associated with the stuffy stereotype of the male sommelier is also Bordeaux and Burgundy, Old World vintages that a feminine palate just can't handle, let alone place on a wine list. Many men feared that a female sommelier would want to contaminate wine lists solely with light and fruity whites, like Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Of course these stereotypes couldn't be further than the truth. Christy Canterbury, global beverage director of Culinary Concepts by Jean-Georges, loves European varieties, especially red Italian wines. It does seem like women are utilizing different New World varieties, but so are many men. And when it comes to taste, both male and female sommeliers are perfectly capable of choosing a fun and creative wine list to suit the restaurant they are working for (although recent studies conducted at Yale University School of Medicine prove that women seem to have keener taste buds).

Although barriers seem to be coming down as women step up into more prominent positions in the wine world, almost every female sommelier has at least one horror story from being mistaken for the coat check girl to being forbidden to wear pants in a multi-story restaurant; but as these women break down the barriers they are creating a new atmosphere in many restaurants. Eating good food paired with delicious wine should be a fun experience. A talented sommelier will offer terrific wine in a way that doesn't make the client feel unsettled. Instead of speaking a language that only other wine masters will understand, Sommelier Lee Campbell, likes to start from the basics and asks her guests to "describe what they like and dislike in simple terms". Half Jamaican and half Trinidadian, Lee Campbell has definitely changed the face of the sommelier scene. Combining her expertise with fun and style, Lee Campbell allows a multitude of people to feel comfortable finding the wine that works best for them.

Clearly, a woman's touch was exactly what the wine world needed. Many women have even changed the name of the profession from the snooty sommelier to the modern title of wine director. And even though there are still a few clients and colleagues who will continue to feel that women don't belong in the position of sommelier, most females in the business now feel that most men are accepting and encouraging; but they all still agree on one thing: you better be able to drink as much as the boys!

— Written by Valerie Cario

Photo credit: Hawkhurst

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